Clos Cibonne Rosé '17
Clos Cibonne is the leading proponent of Tibouren, an ancient grape with roots in Mesopotamia.
The heart of the estate is their traditional, goblet-trained tibouren, which is believed to be a very old grape variety, originally grown in Mesopotamia, propagated by the Greeks, before being transported by the Romans to Italy in the Liguria region, where it is known as rossese. Tibouren is a very fine, thin-skinned grape which requires a lot of ventilation to be successful and needs to grow close to the ocean, with lots of ventilation to be successful and avoid issues with rot. All of these requirements make Clos Cibonne the perfect terroir for tibouren, as they are walking distance to the ocean and constantly blasted with the drying winds from the mistral. André Roux was a great fan of this native variety and understood its potential to be the ideal grape for the region. As part of his revitalization, he replaced all of the estate’s mourvèdre with tibouren. Clos Cibonne soon became synonymous with tibouren and received special permission from the A.O.C. to list the grape on its labels.
93 points Wine & Spirits
Outer quote mark If you are looking for a rosé with personality and grace, Clos Cibonne offers both in spades. The Roux family specializes in tibouren, a rare variety also found in Liguria, where it’s called rossese di Dolceacqua. Vinified in stainless steel, then aged under a layer of yeast (à la Sherry) in old 500-liter foudres, it makes for a substantial, complex rosé in Cuvée Tradition: It’s dark and earthy in feel, suffused with flavors that range from tangy citrus to woodsy spice, orange zest and fresh, fruity mushrooms. Delicious now, it has the structure to gain more complexity with age.